The Hawaiian term He’e Nalu means Wave Sliding. This surfer is riding a solid wood surfboard with no fin! In this image he is literally sliding down the wave.
This image stands out to us on account of its verve and because of our appreciation of this 1930s moment featuring a lone surfer on his board in the waves at Huntington Beach. During this time there were no more then 400 surfers in Southern and Northern California. It would be years before Huntington Beach would be coined Surf City USA. When this photo was taken much of the shoreline was filled with oil derricks. The solid wood board being surfed was significantly heavy, difficult to transport and required great skill to maneuver in the water, especially in a manner as graceful as is captured here.
We bought the negative from which this image was taken out of a private collection approximately 25 years ago. We have yet to identify the photographer or the surfer. We hope it brings you the same abundance of viewing pleasure it has brought us.